This August, we spoke with the owner of Pittsburgh’s Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group to learn a bit about how he got his start, where he plans to go, and how he likes to operate in his kitchens.
You run six restaurants and are opening up two more this year. Do you know anybody who is busier than you?
I don’t know. I’m sure a lot of people. Maybe Mike Tomlin getting ready for Steeler Season. I typically work 14-hour days six days a week and on the seventh day, maybe six to eight hours.
How much of that time do you spend hands-on in the kitchen?
Not as much as I used to, but still a lot more than anyone would think.
When you’re not cooking, what do you do?
I design the restaurants, the logos, the signs, the back of the house. I pick out the furniture. I can spend hours and hours redesigning menus and recipes.
You started out in art school. Why the switch to culinary school?I loved to paint and sculpt but didn’t know if I could make it as an artist. I was sort of a free spirit. I didn’t know if I could be successful commercially.
Are your tattoos a manifestation of that suppression of your passion for art?
No, I wouldn’t say that. Tattoos are addictive. Mine are about lessons I’ve learned, places I’ve been. Or when I’ve built something. I want to remember the time and space. They are a journey of my life.
Where did your love affair with food begin?
I’ve loved to cook. I started working in a restaurant as a dishwasher when I was 14. By the time I was 15, I was working on the line 40 hours a week. During culinary school, my second job was at Hyeholde Restaurant. It was the first chef-driven restaurant I ever worked at. They weren’t cooks, they were chefs. They were respected. That kitchen blew me away. They would have staff meals every day. They were all super passionate about their work. They were like family. Beginning with that experience, I went from loving to cook to the passion for it as a way of life.
What are the similarities between your home kitchen and a restaurant kitchen?
Everything needs to be close. I don’t want to spend time walking to the fridge. Not too many steps to the sink, to the oven, to the stove. I could be blindfolded, turn around and start working. There’s no mental clutter either. I’m very organized. We have a saying we like to use in this business: “Mise en place.” It’s a French phrase which means “everything in its place.” Less movement and less thinking means more time cooking. That’s why I have a glass front fridge. I see everything in it. I don’t waste time digging around for something.
What do you love about Pittsburgh?
My family is here. I have a twin brother and like spending time with his kids. Plus my mom is here. I lived in several places and have traveled a lot. When I opened up my first restaurant here, I thought I would do a stint and move on. I ended up staying longer. I plan to do this outside of this area sometime in the future, but Pittsburgh will always be my home.
You and your restaurants have received a lot of accolades. Do you have a particular favorite?
I’m not super reward-driven, but it’s nice when someone recognizes our hard work. It validates us. I love the James Beard Award because it’s for the whole group. (Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group was a semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurateur 2019.)
Who names your restaurants?
I do. They’re based on what I’m doing at that moment—it just so happens this is what I’m cooking right now. For example, Fish nor Fowl came from the phrase “neither fish nor fowl.” It means not being categorized. I’m doing my own thing. I don’t read the same book twice. Why should I cook the same thing over and over? When it comes to food, there is always something new to try. You never stop learning.
Editor’s note:
Together with his business partner, Tolga Sevdik, DeShantz currently operates six area restaurants including Meat & Potatoes, Butcher and the Rye, täko–, Pork & Beans, Poulet Bleu, and Fish Nor Fowl. Later this year, the team will open gi-jin, a Japanese-inspired raw and gin bar, and Coop de Ville, inspired by the southern table.